April 1, 2009

Glory days

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Vogue discussed in the April number of sublime haute couture collections that were in the last edition. With the world questioning their survival, Couture uncovered 'jar' essences. Collections sublime became the city of Paris in Wonderland, analyzed in detail by the magazine Vogue.

For example, Christian Dior, in Paris, a depressed and lacking in resources after the Second World War, became an arbiter of elegance with their narrow waists and long skirts and so rich in material that could barely lift. In full economic hurricane, John Galliano, in keeping with the spirit of the teacher in 1947 - wanted to go to the very soul of the House. Its collection shows, and defended with conviction, why Costura slashing excellence daydream and makes its viewers. It took more than eighty seamstresses and between 300 and 400 hours of work, to make the last six encorsetados gala dressed in crinoline. Then each piece was sent to the studios of artisans in Paris to post their embroidered and sewn.

For its part, with a strong collection for Chanel, Lagerfeld Kar wanted to get the most out of his office and for this role, did not need more than a clean paper to rewrite history. "It is my favorite material, where it all begins. I can not remember a time in my life that was not doing a sketch. I need physical contact with the paper, is my real way to express myself, "he said between racks. Had to be close to appreciate the 800 hours used in the shop for a dress Lesage strip percalina white embroidered with pearls and sequins, topped by tiny botanical elements previously cut by hand, the 700 working for a fully embroidered dress with small mirror sequins and a white ribbon trim, or 400 for a sequined shirt with large plastic rings and patent leather. The workshop offered its maximum Chanel, seamstresses and wept with emotion with each output.

Armani Privé challenged the aura of the glamorous Shanghai of the 20's to articulate a particularly personal speech. Women Giorgio slide in tailored qipao dresses bedrooms with lacquered red sequins in short cocktail dresses with iridescent lace chinería and skirt embossed with inspirational Coromandel.

John Galliano recovers romantism - Teacher Christian Dior silhouettes with corolla interpreted silk taffeta and pompous appearance.
Galliano uses silk and taffeta in his sexy bodices.
The voluminous skirts of rich material, there capricious head shorter loops to allow for lavish princess cut queues.
Wide sleeves and wearing big hats and lace the heads of the characters portrayed by models which Van Dyck.
Voluptuous skirts adorn jackets with structured necklines and stiff necks.
Galliano pays tribute not only to the bright colors of the works of Vermmer, but his painting Girl Pearl.
Game fabric upper with embroidered silk dress in coral.
The proposed cuts and Dior shows the structure of New Look 1947.
Galliano takes the witness of the silhouette Bar, based in the New Look 1947.
Entitled to More Dior Dior, John Galliano creates a proposal in line with the spirit of the teacher in 1947.
To make the last six 'corsets gala dressed' in crinoline Dior and it took 80 seamstresses from 300 to 400 hours of work.

Illustration by Karl Lagerfel inspired tweed suits from the 50's.
The white was the color that Mademoiselle Chanel felt that lead to aging.
Chanel does not repair in tissues such as organza and sophisticated details.
Their heads were covered with floral headdresses work of Japanese hairdresser Kamo Katsuya.
They used more than 4000 meters of pristine white paper to convert the stage into a veritable paradise on earth.
Armani Privé makes an imaginary journey that reflects the taste and the French influence of the 20's.
In the parade of Armani Privé sleeves blouses recreate the traditional architecture of China.
A thick metal mesh surrounds the neck and the neck as a necklace.
Givenchy dresses draped bid to create ethereal and volatile form.
The baroque profusion of flowers and recreate the imaginary Maria Antonieta by Christian Lacroix.
The necks are adorned with necklaces of endless rows of coral.
In the parade of Valentino saw a profusion of ruffles for abriglos cashmere double layer.
This coat embroidered with organza flowers guipur is a tribute to the White Designer Collection.
In the proposal for the Jean Paul Gaultier tuxedo-inspired collection of Yves Saint Laurent 1976.
Simulate the stoles embroidered Spanish shawls in the form of arabesques.
This Jean Paul Gaultier jacket in a tribute to the futuristic style of singer Klaus Nomi German.
The subtle language of choice is evident in this minidress JPG proportions.
Couture Collection by Bruno Frisoni for Roger Vivier consists of ten models and measure it with silk flowers named 'Hiroko'.
The model 'Dovima' Roger Vivier has a black silk mesh, 24 carat gold.
photos via vogue.es


caroline said...

Wow, beautiful post. Galliano has always been my fave...such a genius!

essenceanddesire said...

Wow!!!!!!!! LOVELY
The first picture is truly sublime! you always do an impressive job of collecting!


Keith said...

I really enjoyed this post. I love that first photo the best.

Sharon Rose said...

Hi there-a very informative, fascinating and beautiful post my dear!

diane said...

It sure wasn't hard to pick out Chanel Iman from the rest of the pack. She really is one of the best models to come along. I loved all of these different looks, so glam. xo

Savvy Mode SG said...

beautiful post. that pair of vivier shoes cost an arm and a leg.

Couture Carrie said...

Wow! What a perfectly edited and captioned couture analysis, FM! Sublime is exactly the word to describe it!

I adore that structured bodice at Galliano, the crinoline shaping at Dior, that amazing white paper flower stiarcase, and the "baroque profusion" at Lacroix. Divine description!

Btw, those Bruno Frisoni/Roger Vivier heels are a work of art!


Ashford said...

oh I love dior couture.

jopeana said...

If, in times of crisis sharpens the imagination and we must get over ourselves. I enjoyed this post, great work dear!!!!


tanya said...

how interesting! great post :-)

F Blog said...

Wow, great post! So interesting. And I loveee the YSL tuexedo.

i.d. said...

Great roundup of images. Reminds me why we need couture - it just carries your imagination away!

Eri said...

I think this has been the most beautiful post so far... OMG all that couture!!!!!!!
Hope you are well hun.
See you soon.

LJ said...

galliano makes me melt.
xx-LJ from SOS!

Mer said...

fantastic post, i love galliano!!!

...love Maegan said...

so fab.

Meg said...

I love couture and it's staggering to think of how much work goes into each of the pieces. Amazing photos as well!

I Like Stuff said...

I love the volume on some of those dresses at the top. They remind me of couture wedding cakes!

La Couturier said...

Haute couture is sooo gorgeous. I love all the collections =]

La C.

michelle said...

So incredibly stunning! Dior can't do no wrong in my eyes xD

Anonymous said...

Couture is so fun, I can't imagine us having fashion without it. It is about dream and fantasy! xx

janettaylor said...

So beautiful post and I love Ur new blogstyle! :D

xoxo: Janet


What a wonderful post, couture is such a dream!

Emy Augustus said...

really like the things you highlighted in this post. i passed an award onto u.

Fayoona said...

all those pictures are soooo beautiful... i would looove that corst from galliano.. swoon!
SOS-er fi xx

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